Posts Tagged ‘Fragrances’
Composing Perfumes May 22, 2009 | 12:01 pm

Fragrances are used in a variety of consumer products these days ranging from cosmetics, luxury goods, food services, manufacture of household chemical items, etc and therefore the composition of good fragrances has become increasingly important. The reason behind this is quite simple. Customers get attracted by the fragrance emitted by the product or the perfume and this leads to their purchasing it.

Composing perfumes that has the power to entice customers is the job of a perfumer who is often referred to as ‘the nose’. With their fine sense of smell and the in depth training obtained in the principles of perfume aesthetics, they are able to create delicate compositions which successfully convey a variety of moods and feelings. A good perfumer should have the essential knowledge in differentiating between different fragrances as well as the individual quality of each ingredient used.

The initial step in the composition of perfumes is very important though extremely tedious. The client gives a brief to the perfumer about the specifications required for a particular perfume which they have in mind. Accordingly, the concerned people start their work by researching on various aspects like the description of the smell of the perfume, the feelings that the smell is able to arouse in them, the desirable time of the day the perfume can be worn, the pricing factor, etc which can ultimately lead to the required aromatic ingredients which can be used in its composition.
The next step in the composition of the perfume is the blending of various ingredients so that it meets the specifications arrived during the brief. This process is time consuming and may take months or years, since it is very essential that the perfect blend is arrived at. Once it is achieved, the composition is used either in the manufacture of consumer products like shampoos, soaps, or other household goods, or sold directly as a perfume.

A main thing to be noted is that there is never a ‘perfect technique’ that can be used while formulating perfumes, even though several guidelines are available to this effect. Other than the base ingredients, a lot of perfumes make use of other substances like colorants, anti oxidants, etc with the purpose of enhancing the shelf life of the perfume as well as to influence the marketability of the product in a positive manner.

It is also to be seen that a lot of contemporary perfumers employ the technique of creating perfumes and colognes by making use of fragrances bases like aromatic chemicals and essential oils. There are various techniques employed to create such fragrances, but largely it is seen that ethyl alcohol and water are used to blend the fragrance oils which are left to age in large tanks for a specific period. This is later filtered and marketed as perfumes.

Tim Walt

Choosing Perfumes as gifts May 22, 2009 | 12:00 pm

Perfumes certainly make great gifts. They bring about a smile on the recipient’s faces and are considered as an ideal gift for any occasion. Perfumes can be gifted on just about any event like mother’s day, Valentine’s Day, birthdays, anniversaries, etc. It makes an ideal gift most of the time since it tends to be very valued and treasured, especially if the particular fragrance happens to be a favorite with the recipient. Perfumes are available in a wide range of fragrances, types and packing to suit the taste of just about any individual.

A perfume happens to be a unisex gift. That is one of the reason why it can be safely gifted to both the sexes, since these days perfumes are equally desired not just by females, but by the male gender too. There are a variety of perfumes which cater exclusively to men. But before choosing a perfume as a gift, it would do well to know a bit about the person to whom you are gifting the scent because perfumes are essentially very personal products. The potency of the fragrance depends on the individual taste of the person who wears it and it depends on the person’s skin type too. It would always be better if you gift someone a perfume of their preferences so that it will be valued and appreciated all the time.

Getting to know the preference of the person to whom you are gifting the perfume can sometimes be tricky. But it can be managed in the midst of a casual conversation and once that part is done, the rest is comparatively easy. You can just pick up a fragrance to their liking and gift them at the appropriate time.

But in case it is not possible to find out about the recipient’s preferences, you do not need to despair. The next alternative would be to choose a scent which you feel is good. But nonetheless, it would be advisable to buy it from a store which permits an exchange because in case the scent you choose did not appeal to the recipient, he or she always has an option to get it exchanged for something of their choice.

Perfumes have to be selected according to the season, occasion, and of course, the skin type. The perfume should be brought according to the person’s age too. If you are uncertain about the preferences of the person, it would be a good idea to gift something like an eau de toilette or mist. A good fragrance will be always considered a treasured and pleasing gift.

Tim Walt

Choosing Perfumes for the right occasion April 21, 2009 | 04:35 pm

Perfumes have become an unavoidable part of our final ‘touch up’. Smelling good automatically translates to ‘feeling good’ too and the sort of confidence that a good perfume can impart is indeed noteworthy. Today, a wide range of fragrances are manufactured by different perfume houses and their number keeps increasing by the day too. These products make use of various ingredients and flavors according to the trend of the day or according to the needs of the various clienteles. Due to the increasing influx of perfumes that are available today, it has become increasingly difficult to choose the perfect fragrance that compliments a person.

Perfumes should be chosen with the utmost care and attention. What suits one need not necessarily be suitable for some other person. That is because of the difference seen in their skin and sweat conditions. Therefore, the ideal way to choose the right perfume would be to try it on the skin before making a purchase so that the person gets know if the smell suits them or not.

Today, we find that just about any toiletry or cosmetic for that matter contains fragrance in them. Soaps, lotions, creams, deodorants, after shaves etc come with their own individual stamp of fragrance and they are able to attract a whole lot of consumers. It is very important that you select a fragrance which goes well with your personality and in fact, enhances it considerably. Perfumes are an excellent way to create your style mantra and are very effective in leaving a lasting and lingering impression on others too.

Today, we find various types of perfumes in the market. There are lighter fragrances for day or office wear and heady scents for party occasions. There are fruity scents, citrus scents, floral scents, and a wide range of other combinations which may leave one totally confused. Identifying your type of scent comes out of a lot of trial and error and it is ideal that you try it on your wrist and wait for some time before making that payment.
Perfumes and deodorants helps in keeping the human body cool, fresh, relaxed, sexy and confident all day long. So it is very important that the right fragrance be selected to enhance these qualities. A pleasant smell leaves a lasting impression on people and care should be taken to select a fragrance that suits your personality and increases your confidence. Select the lighter and delicate scents for day wear and leave the stronger and heavier fragrances for that evening party or night out.

Perfumes should be stored carefully so that it lasts for a longer time. Perfumes can retain their freshness and quality for longer times if preserved in the right conditions.

Tim Walt

Perfumes and allergies April 21, 2009 | 04:29 pm

Perfumes have become an integral and inevitable part of our attire and today, we can find thousands of fragrances in the market. Although, in ancient times, perfumes were created out of pure floral distillations, today we see that perfumes are created with more of synthetic chemicals or various animal and plant matter derived through artificial means. This, though economically feasible, can result in various health hazards, the prime one of which is considered to be perfume allergies.

Allergies caused due to using perfumes or due to being around others who use perfumes can be seen commonly these days. Identifying the cause of these allergies becomes all the more difficult since it is very difficult to know the ingredients which go into the creation of the said fragrance as the formulas are a closely guarded secret in the industry.

The problem is not just restricted to perfumes alone. Regular household cleaners, air fresheners, cosmetics, hair spray, shampoos, scented candles; etc can bring about devastating reactions on people who are allergic to the particular scent. The mildest form of such allergies may be a simple rash or triggering off a headache, but in its most severe form, perfume allergies can also cause a full blown attack of asthma.
Perfume allergies are very commonly found these days. This sometimes happens in confined spaces, say for instance an office, where lots of people are forced to work in close proximity and it becomes inevitable when you are forced to take in the smell of the perfume that your co-worker is wearing, and which in turn results in an allergy. The only solution in this aspect would be to either request the person to stop wearing perfume to work or to shift your seat to a different area. But this is really not practical all the time and it becomes a problem if the company policies are a bit rigid.

Other common symptoms found in the course of perfume allergy are runny nose, watery and itchy eyes, wheezing, coughing, sneezing, etc.  when you come across such symptoms when wearing that particular perfume or being near someone who is wearing the perfume, you can be sure that it is a case of allergy. But it is very difficult to diagnose the problem mainly due to the fact that this is the last thing that comes to the mind of people. Allergies are seldom connected with perfumes and even doctors sometimes confuse it with other seasonal allergies.

Another thing to be taken into account is that not all perfumes may trigger off an allergy since the composition differs according to the type of perfumes.  So, do pay attention to your surroundings so that you are able to identify the particular fragrance that triggers off an allergic reaction in you.

Tim Walt

Wood perfumes April 21, 2009 | 04:27 pm

Base notes, or the longest lasting elements of perfumes, are usually dominated by the scents of wood. There are many different kinds of woods used for perfumes including cedar, rosewood, juniper, pine and agarwood. The oils and distilled essences from these and other woods are very important even to perfumes where you don’t detect their fragrance. In many scents, the woods are used to accentuate other aromas.

Sandalwood, perhaps the best known of all these fragrant woods, grows in India and other parts of Asia. Synthetics are often used for sandalwood, as the forests have been severely decimated from over-harvesting for perfumes and many other wood products. It not only serves as an important note in perfume, it is an excellent fixative that can anchor other scents. B-United by Benetton uses sandalwood as a base note as well as elements of citrus and floral notes.



B-UNITED BY BENETTON (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 3.4 OZ)
Price : $12.01

Agarwood is another Asian tree that grows mainly in Laos and produces a very fragrant oil and resin that perfumers love. Only the smallest bit of the oil is necessary to scent a room and it can take up to twelve hours to unfold. It will last on a person’s skin for more than a whole day and when applied to a porous material such as wooden boxes or cloth the scent can actually last for months. It is also said to have spiritual qualities and to improve access to hidden memories. Perfumers prize its deep and complex aroma. Yves Saint Laurent and Amouage perfumers both use agarwood as a base note in their premium fragrances.

Oudh oil resin, from the Aquilaria tree in Asia, is produced from trees infected with a parasitic fungus. The growth causes them to produce a resin in the heart of the tree over a period of, sometimes, hundreds of years before the infection kills the tree and leaves the resin behind to be chipped away. This resin, called Aloeswood, is very rare and considered the most sacred oil on earth. Its delicious aroma is used only in the finest, most premium perfumes. The lower quality resin is shredded and distilled then dried and used for incense. 

Cedar is another wood valuable in perfumery. Besides the wood’s decay-resistance, its aroma is so fresh and rich that it was used in building the famous temple of King Solomon. Onyx by Azzaro combines spices with citrus and apple, using cedar wood ad juniper to give the scent a refreshing, carefree aroma with delicious lingering signature.



ONYX BY AZZARO (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 1.7 OZ)
Price : $16.63

Without aromatic woods, perfumes would lose much of their personality. Synthetic versions of some of these woods have seen increasing use as the forests become decimated from harvesting. Synthetics are often longer lasting than natural oils and give forests time to regenerate, allowing us to enjoy the fragrance of our favorite woods.

Tim Walt

Aldehydes perfumes April 21, 2009 | 04:10 pm

Aldehydes are benzenoid compounds, used to help make synthetic ingredients for perfume. These organic chemicals are a mixture of oxygen, carbon and hydrogen and are often combined with alcohol and natural plant materials and have a strong diffusive effect; that is, they enable the ingredients in a perfume to expand and inundate the formula and enhance their properties. In addition, they can make a perfume “sparkle” and boost the top notes, or the scent immediately noticeable when the perfume is first applied. A perfume with aldehydes is notable for its rich, opulent properties. First used in Chanel no. 5, many modern perfumers such at Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy take advantage of the sophisticated properties of aldehydes. 



CHANEL # 5 BY CHANEL (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 1.7 OZ)
Price : $81.17

Ernest Beaux, a Russian-born chemist, was the first to use aldehydes in a cologne he named Bouquet de Napoleon to celebrate the hundredth anniversary of the Battle of Borodino. After his work in World War One as both an infantryman and counterintelligence officer with the Russian army, he returned to Paris and continued his experimentation with aldehydes and in 1920 he perfected the fragrances that would become the world famous perfumes, Chanel No. 5 and Chanel No. 22. 

Before adelhydes, nitro benzene was used in perfumes along with fatty acids that mimicked the fragrances of fruit and flowers. With the cost of distilling, pressing and grinding various plants, herbs and other objects in order to get oils and liquid, perfume was out of reach for the woman of ordinary means. Indeed, wealthy women often wore their favorite fragrances specifically for the purpose of flaunting their social station. 

The use of adelhydes with natural oils allowed perfumers to lower their overhead in creating their scents instead of compromising on quality. Scents must have a very precise combination of ingredients with the adelhydes to achieve their aromas. For instance, amyl cinnamic aldehyde is found in many commercial products such as shampoos, fabric softeners and other domestic toiletries and exudes a pleasant floral bouquet. Hexyl adelhydes, on the other hand, produces a fruity fragrance. Aldehydes are particularly well suited to subtle, feminine perfumes or when a more elegant ambiance is desired.

Simply put, aldehydes allow the prime ingredients of a perfume to expand and permeate the base materials. They act as conductive agents, much as a the stalk of a water lily allows the blossom to grow and thrive. Without them, perfumers would still be able to create unique scents but the aroma would not last nearly as long or be consistent throughout the mixture. 

Today, most high quality perfumes make use of aldehydes to enhance not only the scent of their products but the natural ingredients that the contain. Some rare components such as Frankincense can be used a bit more liberally, thanks to aldehydes. The scarcity of Frankincense, a product of the bark of the Boswallia tree, makes perfume containing it very expensive but without aldehydes it would be out of reach for even a millionaire. Other equally hard to find or manufacture ingredients that are highly prized among creative perfumers are available for use thanks to aldehydes. 

Tim Walt

Some well known perfumers January 24, 2009 | 07:16 pm

A perfume is a material which produces an aromatic odor. It is a volatile liquid that is either created by making use of flower extractions or manufactured synthetically. Whichever the way of manufacture, perfumes have always been a favourite of mankind down the ages and is considered to be in a heady world of its own. Worn to impart a pleasant smell to the body, perfumes are an infusion of fragrant oils, solvents and aroma compounds in specific proportions.
The word perfume is a derivation from the Latin word “per fumum” which simply means ‘smoke’. Although the creation of perfumes, or perfumery as it is known, originated as an art in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt, it became more refined and underwent great development in the hands of the Romans and Persians, and to a certain extent, the East Asians too.
Today, perfumes have formed an integral part of our daily life and we all tend to use it in one form or the other. Some of the most common perfumes that are extremely popular today are:
Creed perfumes- this is a special favorite among the male world. Most of the fragrances targeted towards the males, make use of this making it the most well-liked male fragrance at the moment.
Chanel perfume- this is considered to be one of the best perfumes at any time. Its popularity has never ever decreased and even today, it can be seen that it is really sought after by the world market.
Forever perfumes- This is one perfume that is well known for its meticulous quality, value and style, thanks to its creator, Alfred Sung who is known for his clean and straight creations.
Curious perfumes- This is a perfume which has been rapidly gaining grounds over the years and is considered as an innovation from Elizabeth Arden and Britney Spears. It is expected to grow in popularity in the future chiefly due to its heady scent that is sure to attract women.
Blueberry perfumes- These perfumes are considered to be very popular among its consumers. The main perfumes catered to by this are brut, weekend, London and Touch. The brut perfume especially, is considered to be a great favorite among people.
Guerlain Perfumes- Founded by Pierre-Francois Guerlain in 1828, this is a well known perfume house which has over 300 perfumes to its credit. ‘Jicky’, Mitsouko, Shalimar, Samsara, etc are some of the most famous fragrances brought out by this perfumer.
Molinard- This is a famous French perfume house which has been in the limelight since 1849. Its clientele included Queen Victoria and several other dignitaries. One of the famous fragrances brought about by this prestigious perfume house was Habanita and Molinard de Molinard.

Tim Walt - Jan.2009

Obtaining Odorants- Distillation January 24, 2009 | 07:00 pm

Essential oils are a very important part in the creation of perfumes. They are concentrated and highly volatile compounds which are either extracted from parts of the plant like the leaves, flower, stem, roots, bark, wood, etc or manufactured synthetically. Aromatherapy essentially makes use of naturally extracted compounds and as a result the method of extraction plays a very important role in the manufacture of quality fragrances. There are various methods of extraction of odorants from the raw materials, like maceration, cold pressing, solvent extraction, etc. But it remains to be said that a very popular and effective technique to this effect is the process of distillation. This is a process that is normally employed to extract aromatic compounds from roses or orange blossoms.

There are various processes of distillation by which odorants are obtained from aromatic plants. Of these processes, the most popular and effective ones are the method of Steam distillation and Water distillation. Steam distillation definitely has an edge over water distillation and it is sometimes opined that this is a better method in the extraction of essential oils for the purpose of aromatherapy.
Process of steam distillation:

Steam distillation is considered to be extremely popular to this day. The basic procedure involves using steam to heat the required part of the plant, thus resulting in extracting its oil. These even in this techno- savvy age. This process uses steam to heat the part of the plant, from which the oil has to be extracted. The vapors and the essence of the plant are then collected and bottled.

The procedure employed in steam distillation is as follows. The selected part or part of the plant is placed in a pressure cooker like utensil and is constantly heated by steam. This process releases the molecules from the plants which forms vapors. These vapors are passed through a cool pipe, which results in the vapors being transformed back into liquids. It is at this stage that the oil from the liquid gets separated and floats on top of the water molecules. This oil is collected as pure essential oil. Although the process of steam distillation may sound easy, it is very much complicated in nature. The whole procedure has to be done with meticulous care and attention and requires a lot of expertise. That could be the reason why oils extracted in such a manner is quite expensive.

Another method of extraction of aromatic compounds from parts of the plant is the dry or destructive distillation. This is a process by which the raw materials used are directly heated without any carrier solvent being present. This procedure results in the release of fragrant compounds which undergoes anhydrous pyrolysis and again forms different other fragrant compounds. Such a procedure is mainly used for obtaining essential oils from fragrant woods and fossil amber, which results in a ‘ burnt’ or ‘toasted’ odour.