CALECHE
BY HERMES (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 1.6 OZ)

Price : $36.05

Musk is a major or minor ingredient in over half the most popular perfumes. Whether as a base to support other scents or acting as the prominent odor, musk has unique properties that are hard for most people to resist. It accentuates and boosts the endurance of perfume’s other properties whether they are floral, plant-based or wood. This makes it a very valuable asset to perfumers. Muscone, the oily liquid that is the active component of musk, actually has a very unpleasant smell of ammonia and fatty tissues but once it is diluted the scent becomes very pleasant.

But where is musk found and how is it harvested? Originally, it came from the musk deer, a creature distantly related to deer but weighing only 20-40 pound with no antlers and large tusks. In order to get the musk glands, the animal had to be killed and this resulted in their population dwindling so drastically that they are now protected by laws in the countries they live. Other sources of musk include the American beaver and other animals, the musk flower, wood and seeds. It can also be made synthetically; most of the musk used in this generation of perfume is synthetic as companies become increasingly interested in preserving wildlife.

DESIRE BLUE BY ALFRED DUNHILL (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 3.4 OZ)

Price : $20.79

But why has musk always been in such demand, even as far back as ancient Egypt? Simply put, musk is a sexual attractant and aphrodisiac! Secreted only by male vertebrates, it is a natural pheromone specifically meant to attract a mate. Because of this, musk is the most expensive ingredient used in perfumes and other products, costing up to $45,000 per kilogram!

Alfred Dunhill manufactures Desire Blue for men, using synthetic musk to support and bolster the elements of bergamot, orange flower water, amber and tonka bean. While orange flower water may seem an odd ingredient for a man’s cologne, it gives it a sparkle that adds a bit of mystery to the impression of strength. Azzaro makes a more serious creation in Onyx, combining apple, lemon, coriander and other spices, cedar wood and bergamot with musk for a defined statement of being in charge, decisive and adventurous.

ONYX BY AZZARO (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 3.4 OZ)

Price : $20.14

When the process of synthesizing musk was discovered, it began to be used more liberally in perfume and other products in which scent was an important marketing concept. Today it is used in household products, bath soaps and shampoo as well as fine perfumes.

Tim Walt

Fruity perfumes, particularly the more subtle ones, are refreshing and attractive. Many perfumes aren’t immediately noticeable as having fruit essences in them but you would notice a real difference without them. Amarige Mariage by Givenchy, for instance, doesn’t smell fruity but the mimosa, spices and violet depend on the accompanying essences of citrus, peaches and plums to bolster round out its enticing aroma.

AMARIGE BY GIVENCHY (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 1 OZ)

Price : $23.24

Fruits are usually used after a process called “expression” in which they are pressed or squeezed to collect their oils. The peels of citrus fruits yield excellent results with this method because they hold large quantities of oil. Citrus is very cost effective to process for perfume, particularly because the fruit does not have to be of the quality required for sale as food in our markets. Lemons and oranges, the least expensive of citrus oils, are used extensively in many brands and types of perfumes and household products for this very reason. Plus, nearly everyone loves their fresh scent!

The Cold-Pressed Method is also used to harvest fruit oils. Since the oil glands in the fruit rind are easily broken open by pressure or grating, the uncut fruit is deposited in a vat with a very rough interior then rotated. The resulting oils are then collected, decanted and separated from impurities. Favorable economics as well as their pleasant odor make citrus oil a popular ingredient in perfumes and other products.

Many people also like the scent of apples, cherries and strawberries but these three fruits, unfortunately, don’t react as expected to extraction and their attractive scent is lost in the process. When you detect these fruits in various products or perfumes, you smell a synthetic imitation due to their unsuitability for processing.

Bergamot oil, from the fruit of the Bergamot orange tree, is the exception to cheaply harvested citrus oil. Its fresh fragrance is one of the more valuable perfume ingredients due to its relative rarity but more than a third of perfumes made for women contain it. Men’s cologne has recently made liberal use of Bergamot oil as it has become more in demand. Onyx by Azzaro uses Bergamot in combination with lemon, coriander (cilantro), Juniper, cedar wood and musk to create a very masculine and attractive perfume for men. Bergamot is an ideal compliment to the other, heavier ingredients and makes the blend lighter while still maintaining an earthy, masculine scent.

ONYX BY AZZARO (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 3.4 OZ)

Price : $20.14

Fruits also lend a youthful attitude to perfumes and an atmosphere of carefree fun, depending upon what other ingredients they’re blended with. Using fruit oils in perfume allows perfumers to convey a variety of moods and emotions as well as unforgettable aromas.

Tim Walt

Perfumers make use of many elements when they search out new and different scent combinations and roots are one of many sources they tap Although roots aren’t used as often as blossoms or leaves, the few that they do make use of are very special.

Vetiver root is a highly prized ingredient in many perfumes. The plant itself is tall with leaves that are long, thin and rigid with flowers of brownish purple. It doesn’t sound like a very remarkable source of scent until you consider that the roots absorb the essence of the soil in which it grows. Where it is grown determines the scent! Some, grown in India, is smoky while those grown in Sri Lanka impart an earthy woodiness. Haitian Vetiver has an array of aromas from clean grassy scent to citrusy to a light floral bouquet.
The Haitian variety is particularly prized by perfumers. When harvested, the oil is thick and dark brown, with a smoky, earthy sweet odor that’s very seductive.

Sassafras, usually thought of as an herbal remedy, tea or cool drink, is distilled by perfumers and the resulting oil is called safrole. It is usually used sparingly and mixed with other oils such as flowers or woods. Its strong olfactory flavor adds tang and excitement to many scents.

Sandalwood, probably the best known of any common scent, is not so common when blended with complimentary fragrances. Its oil is distilled from the wood and root of the tree into the unmistakable exotic fragrance most people know and love. Sandalwood is an important part of many perfumes, particularly the Oriental types. Lair Du Temps by Nina Ricci is a very good example of the use of sandalwood in a wonderfully feminine and exciting perfume. Mixed with gardenia, rose, carnation and musk, the sandalwood adds a hint of the Orient and helps to bring out the exquisite combination of musk and blossoms.

LAIR DU TEMPS BY NINA RICCI (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY W/BIRD CAP 1.7 OZ)

Price : $25.69

Another root commonly used in perfumery is Angelica Root, also known as Holy Ghost Root or Archangel Root. Aside from its medicinal qualities, it has a woody, fresh and peppery aroma that is excellent for mixing with florals. It is often used in high grade perfumes to give them musk-like notes. Angelica Root is a beautiful plant nearly five feet in height with a long, fibrous root prized by perfumers. The plant has a very tangy taste and odor but, like many attractive plants, is poisonous if eaten raw. Once cooked for a dish or processed for perfume, it is perfectly safe. Its stalks are often candied and used as decorations for cakes and desserts in Europe, or to flavor liqueurs and wines.

Tim Walt

Spices were discovered long ago as an aid in food preservation and flavor. Naturally, people began to think that the aromas of spices could be used to provide scents for the air and their persons. Spices began to be used for perfumes in Egypt and the Middle and Far East first, as Europe had no source for them with few exceptions, before the era of the Crusades opened up routes for trading.

Cardamom, often called “The Queen of Spices”, is grown for the most part in southern India, a fruit of the ginger family. Its cool fragrance is slightly sweet and reminiscent of oranges with a touch of ginger. It compliments other scents very well, toning down the more aggressive ones while accentuating aromas that aren’t so strong. Omnia by Bulgari uses cardamom along with saffron, black pepper (“The King of Spices”), Indian wood, mandarin and white chocolate to create a rich, light perfume with Oriental overtones that women love to wear, much to the delight of the men around them. 

OMNIA BY BVLGARI (EAU DE PARFUM SPRAY 2.2 OZ)
Price : $32.90

Thyme is another popular spice used in perfume, usually as a top note that creates a first impression or a middle note that evolves as the perfume mellows from the warmth of the skin. Thyme’s light, fresh aroma perfectly compliments the orange blossom, vanilla and citrus in Gucci by Gucci. If you wonder how essence of thyme smells, you can reach for your spice rack to get an idea; it’s probably there with others you use in everyday cooking. 

GUCCI BY GUCCI (EAU DE PARFUM SPRAY 1 OZ)
Price : $30.34

Spices are also widely used in men’s perfume products. For example, Lapidus by Ted Lapidus perfumers uses a blend of spices combined with woods, lavender and amber to convey a sense of strong sophistication and individuality backed by warm and earthy power undertones. 

LAPIDUS BY TED LAPIDUS (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 3.4 OZ)
Price : $15.46

Nutmeg, the seed of evergreen tree that grow in Southeast Asia and other tropical climates, is processed by steam distillation after it is ground up. It is said that in England a few centuries ago, it was such a valuable spice that being able to obtain and sell a few nutmeg nuts would assure lifetime financial independence! Nutmeg is a perfect compliment to perfume formulas that contain wood tones or florals and provides freshness to the blend as well as a faint rich sweetness. 

Spices each have such varied fragrances that they are used to convey emotions as well as mental landscapes. The aromas of the most frequently used spices are those that many of us have smelled all our lives in our everyday food or in sachets used to freshen our closet and even the household cleaners our mothers used! It’s no wonder that perfumes containing spices are invariably pleasant and makes us feel sentimental as well as intrigued.

Tim Walt

We’ve all tasted vanilla in various foods and frozen treats and appreciated its remarkable flavor. Perfumers have long known that the scent of vanilla is even more inspiring in perfume than it is in food and have used it for hundreds of years to impart a warm, velvety fragrance to everything from incense to perfumes for royalty. These days, nearly everyone can enjoy a fragrance of sensuous vanilla weaving its way through the other notes of a fine perfume. 

KENZO FLOWER BY KENZO (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 3.4 OZ)
Price : $39.24

Vanilla, however, is very costly to grow and manufacture, requiring intense labor from nurturing the plant through pollination and harvest. Vanilla planifolia, a member of the orchid family, is a vine that can climb up to three hundred feet high and often is grown in the shade of larger trees due to its sensitivity to the rays of the sun. The beautiful blossoms of the orchid must be pollinated in order to produce the pods from which the oil for perfumes is extracted by distillation. Insects and hummingbirds are not considered reliable enough so workers begin at dawn to pollinate each blossom, which opens in the morning and closes forever by afternoon. The process is so labor intensive and the fruits of that labor so valuable that each individual pod is marked to prevent theft. 

 

SHALIMAR BY GUERLAIN (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY REFILLABLE 3.1 OZ)
Price : $79.29

So you can see why vanilla is so highly prized and is an ingredient in so many of the finer perfumes. Shalimar Light by Guerlain blends vanilla with jasmine petals and bergamot to produce a light and invigorating scent that is unmistakably feminine and alluring. Kenzo uses vanilla with violet and rose to make Kenzo Flower, a refreshingly light floral fragrance. Jean Paul Gaultier, the renowned designer, created a perfume by the same name using amber and wood essences with vanilla for an irresistibly male fragrance that exudes confidence. The use of vanilla in perfume is limited only by the skill and imagination of the perfumer.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER BY JEAN PAUL GAULTIER (HAIR STYLING GEL 4.2 OZ)
- Price : $22.95

Vanilla has also been produced synthetically due to the exorbitant cost of producing the natural product. In creating the aroma artificially, perfumers have put the wonderful fragrance of vanilla within reach of nearly everyone who enjoys its wonderful scent. In fact, synthetic vanilla often retains its aroma longer than the natural version due to its chemical composition. 

The rich, warm bouquet of vanilla has been prized for hundreds of years and rightly so. As far back as 1000 B.C., vanilla was a treasure both for the cupboard and for personal wear. This very basic yet indescribably delicious scent is a must for everyone’s perfume collection.

Tim Walt

Synthetic perfumes can imitate natural scents or create new ones that aren’t found in nature. From a fresh marine scent that can’t be obtained naturally to a sensuous orchid aroma that is highly prized but not attainable from natural sources, synthetic odors have been a boon to the perfume industry. 

Nearly all great perfumes contain synthetic molecules, not because synthetics are less expensive but because perfumers can create scents that evoke memories and emotions that nature lacks the raw materials for. All of Chanel’s perfumes contain synthetic components as do every other truly remarkable perfume. Methyl dihydrojasmonate, for instance, imparts the sense of pure light and clean air that imitates the scent and feel of water, an aroma not possible to imitate with any natural ingredients. 

Many lovers of perfume harbor a strong prejudice against synthetics, thinking they cheapen true perfume. Nothing could be further from the truth! The world-famous Chanel No. 5 would be mediocre without synthetic aldehydes developed in 1903. Cheap? The best synthetic creations, much like rare natural ingredients such as true vanilla, are very expensive. A truly wonderful synthetic ingredient can cost up to $1200 per pound. 

CHANEL # 5 BY CHANEL (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 1.7 OZ)
Price : $81.17

Synthetics can also prevent allergic reactions. There are many people who love the scent of Sandalwood but have allergic reactions when they try to wear perfume containing it. A synthetic named Sandalore prevents that reaction and brings joy to the allergy sufferer. As an added bonus, synthetics help to preserve our natural environment. The sandalwood forests in India have been harvested at an alarming rate to sate our thirst for their fragrance in perfumes, soaps, and other everyday products. Many perfumers, seeing the destruction of natural resources for the sake of commerce, are turning to synthetics in order to serve their customers while preserving the earth’s beauty for their own children and grandchildren. 

Take musk, for example. The musk deer was hunted to the point of endangerment up till a couple of decades ago when synthetic musk was developed and laws enacted to protect the animal. Synthetic musk not only lasts longer than the real thing, the guilt factor is removed completely. You can wear your favorite musk-based perfume knowing that no suffering was involved for innocent animals. 

In summary, you can make a nutritious dinner using only natural ingredients and practices such as baking your own bread over a fire but why would you want to? Artificial methods and growing practices have greatly enhanced our lives and our health. Synthetic perfumes, in the same way, not only protect our natural resources but allow us to enjoy a large spectrum of truly remarkable and memorable scents that would normally be out of reach.

Tim Walt

Base notes, or the longest lasting elements of perfumes, are usually dominated by the scents of wood. There are many different kinds of woods used for perfumes including cedar, rosewood, juniper, pine and agarwood. The oils and distilled essences from these and other woods are very important even to perfumes where you don’t detect their fragrance. In many scents, the woods are used to accentuate other aromas.

Sandalwood, perhaps the best known of all these fragrant woods, grows in India and other parts of Asia. Synthetics are often used for sandalwood, as the forests have been severely decimated from over-harvesting for perfumes and many other wood products. It not only serves as an important note in perfume, it is an excellent fixative that can anchor other scents. B-United by Benetton uses sandalwood as a base note as well as elements of citrus and floral notes.

B-UNITED BY BENETTON (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 3.4 OZ)
Price : $12.01

Agarwood is another Asian tree that grows mainly in Laos and produces a very fragrant oil and resin that perfumers love. Only the smallest bit of the oil is necessary to scent a room and it can take up to twelve hours to unfold. It will last on a person’s skin for more than a whole day and when applied to a porous material such as wooden boxes or cloth the scent can actually last for months. It is also said to have spiritual qualities and to improve access to hidden memories. Perfumers prize its deep and complex aroma. Yves Saint Laurent and Amouage perfumers both use agarwood as a base note in their premium fragrances.

Oudh oil resin, from the Aquilaria tree in Asia, is produced from trees infected with a parasitic fungus. The growth causes them to produce a resin in the heart of the tree over a period of, sometimes, hundreds of years before the infection kills the tree and leaves the resin behind to be chipped away. This resin, called Aloeswood, is very rare and considered the most sacred oil on earth. Its delicious aroma is used only in the finest, most premium perfumes. The lower quality resin is shredded and distilled then dried and used for incense. 

Cedar is another wood valuable in perfumery. Besides the wood’s decay-resistance, its aroma is so fresh and rich that it was used in building the famous temple of King Solomon. Onyx by Azzaro combines spices with citrus and apple, using cedar wood ad juniper to give the scent a refreshing, carefree aroma with delicious lingering signature.

ONYX BY AZZARO (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 1.7 OZ)
Price : $16.63

Without aromatic woods, perfumes would lose much of their personality. Synthetic versions of some of these woods have seen increasing use as the forests become decimated from harvesting. Synthetics are often longer lasting than natural oils and give forests time to regenerate, allowing us to enjoy the fragrance of our favorite woods.

Tim Walt

Aldehydes are benzenoid compounds, used to help make synthetic ingredients for perfume. These organic chemicals are a mixture of oxygen, carbon and hydrogen and are often combined with alcohol and natural plant materials and have a strong diffusive effect; that is, they enable the ingredients in a perfume to expand and inundate the formula and enhance their properties. In addition, they can make a perfume “sparkle” and boost the top notes, or the scent immediately noticeable when the perfume is first applied. A perfume with aldehydes is notable for its rich, opulent properties. First used in Chanel no. 5, many modern perfumers such at Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy take advantage of the sophisticated properties of aldehydes. 

CHANEL # 5 BY CHANEL (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 1.7 OZ)
Price : $81.17

Ernest Beaux, a Russian-born chemist, was the first to use aldehydes in a cologne he named Bouquet de Napoleon to celebrate the hundredth anniversary of the Battle of Borodino. After his work in World War One as both an infantryman and counterintelligence officer with the Russian army, he returned to Paris and continued his experimentation with aldehydes and in 1920 he perfected the fragrances that would become the world famous perfumes, Chanel No. 5 and Chanel No. 22. 

Before adelhydes, nitro benzene was used in perfumes along with fatty acids that mimicked the fragrances of fruit and flowers. With the cost of distilling, pressing and grinding various plants, herbs and other objects in order to get oils and liquid, perfume was out of reach for the woman of ordinary means. Indeed, wealthy women often wore their favorite fragrances specifically for the purpose of flaunting their social station. 

The use of adelhydes with natural oils allowed perfumers to lower their overhead in creating their scents instead of compromising on quality. Scents must have a very precise combination of ingredients with the adelhydes to achieve their aromas. For instance, amyl cinnamic aldehyde is found in many commercial products such as shampoos, fabric softeners and other domestic toiletries and exudes a pleasant floral bouquet. Hexyl adelhydes, on the other hand, produces a fruity fragrance. Aldehydes are particularly well suited to subtle, feminine perfumes or when a more elegant ambiance is desired.

Simply put, aldehydes allow the prime ingredients of a perfume to expand and permeate the base materials. They act as conductive agents, much as a the stalk of a water lily allows the blossom to grow and thrive. Without them, perfumers would still be able to create unique scents but the aroma would not last nearly as long or be consistent throughout the mixture. 

Today, most high quality perfumes make use of aldehydes to enhance not only the scent of their products but the natural ingredients that the contain. Some rare components such as Frankincense can be used a bit more liberally, thanks to aldehydes. The scarcity of Frankincense, a product of the bark of the Boswallia tree, makes perfume containing it very expensive but without aldehydes it would be out of reach for even a millionaire. Other equally hard to find or manufacture ingredients that are highly prized among creative perfumers are available for use thanks to aldehydes. 

Tim Walt

Leather is a scent that is either loved or hated with very little expression in between. Most people are attracted to it, visualizing wonderful memories from their childhood or vacations spent camping or a carefree day in the saddle. But did you know there are different classes of perfume in the leather category? There are true leathers, floral leathers with influences of iris or violets and even tobacco leathers that have smoke or wood notes added. 

Leather perfumes originated in the 16th century when perfumers were asked to alter the smell of freshly tanned hide used to make gloves and boots for the upper classes who didn’t particularly care for the gamy smell of their new garments. Since tanning leather in those days involved the use of animal excretions, the odor could be quite strong and unpleasant! 

Leather perfumes are most often associated with masculine images but several varieties are made for women. Fendi makes a perfume of the same name for women that tempers the scent of leather with rose, amber, musk and sandalwood for a creation that is alluring as well as intriguing. Combining the scent of leather with subtle floral notes imparts an unmistakable air of femininity and freshness to the full-bodied and memorable scent of leather. 

FENDI BY FENDI (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 3.4 OZ)
- Price : $38.13

Of course, men’s perfumes make liberal use of leather scents to impart a rugged impression of authority and strength. In 1996 the late Luciano Pavarotti commissioned a perfume he named Pavarotti Donna whose fresh leather aroma was combined with subtle tobacco and wood scents. It is still a very popular cologne; its use of elements usually associated with male attributes is said to make it a definition of masculinity. 

PAVAROTTI DONNA BY LUCIANO PAVAROTTI (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 1.7 OZ)
- Price : $10.78

Leather is a very versatile scent for perfumers to work with and has inspired many great perfumes. Tempering the leather with citrus, spices or floral oils can produce nearly endless formulas both manly and feminine. Leather perfumes can convey strength and aggression or delicate sophistication and all the conception between those two
extremes. It can be manipulated by using spices, woods, citrus and florals to create moods ranging from free and easy fun to adventure and rugged strength.

Some perfumes using leather essences invoke a strong impression of fine luxury such as leather upholstery while others use the scent as a means of tempering florals or spices, lending them a more basic, earthy quality. Leather is a wonderful attribute to many perfumes, truly versatile and consistently pleasant.

Tim Walt