One would think that flowers would have been one of the first ingredients that would be used to make perfume but in fact, flowers weren’t used for that purpose until the 9th century. Before that, perfumers as far back as four thousand years ago used herbs, spices, resins and bark. Extracting the oils from flowers by distillation was first introduced by a Persian chemist named Avicenna and his procedure is still in wide use today. Until Avicenna’s discovery, it was a laborious process to use flowers in perfume, requiring hours of effort to pulverize the petals finely enough to extract some of the oils. Years later, the Hungarians would be the first to make modern perfume from flower oils blended in a solution of alcohol.

Most flowers are fragrant but some are exceptional enough to be used in perfumes. The best known and one of the most popular throughout perfume history is the rose, generally known as the queen of flowers. Perfumes made of roses were favorites in Greece and Rome. By gathering the flowers at night they would be at their best since they begin losing their scent after sunrise. Cristalle by Chanel uses roses as the chief ingredient along with aldehydes to enhance the bouquet, amber and patchouli.

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Price : $103.19

Jasmine is another flower used in perfumes, also harvested just before dawn. Processed immediately before their fragrance fades, special care must be taken to keep the fragile petals from bruising and affecting the balance of the bouquet. Special baskets for just this purpose are kept for transporting them. Jasmine is used with vanilla and bergamot by Guerlain in the manufacture of Shalimar Light perfume, a refreshing feminine fragrance that is airy, pleasant and light.

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Violets are also favorites but produce so little essential oil that they’re rarely used these days. Instead a synthetic replacement is used, usually combined with oils that resemble that of the violet.

Flower of fruit are also used in many perfumes. Those who know the heavenly scent of orange and lemon blossoms will understand why they are a popular ingredient in many floral perfumes. Jasmine, mimosa and lily blossoms as well as lily of the valley are also quite common in perfumes. Unopened flower buds of clove add spice to perfume concoctions and a member or the orchid family, vanilla, also is a favorite ingredient.

A few terms may come in handy for understanding floral perfume descriptions. When you hear a perfume referred to as a “single floral” it means that the fragrance is dominated by one particular flower such as rose or lily. “Floral Bouquet” means it contains the scent of several flowers and “bright floral” is a combination of the two.

Tim Walt

Odorants are a very important factor in the creation of perfumes. They are basically obtained by drawing out aromatic compounds from suitable raw materials which are obtained from parts of the plant or other natural sources. Although they can be created through synthetic methods too, the natural methods used in extraction of essential oils are far more superior and in demand. The whole procedure of extraction of odorants requires it to go through several processes.
There are different methods employed for the extraction of essential oils from natural sources, like distillation, solvent extraction, expression, enfleurage, etc. The method used depends upon the nature of the raw materials. These processes results in end products like essential oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters according to the wax concentrate on the extract.

Expression is one such process employed in the extraction of aromatic compounds. In this method, the raw materials used are squeezed, pressed, or compressed to extract the oil from it. This is a technique which is frequently employed in the extraction of oils from fruit peels, especially of those which fall into the category of the citrus family. The peels from such fruits contain a large amount of oil and hence expression is one method where all the oil can be taken out in the most economically viable manner. Normally, the peels are cold pressed or expressed mechanically for the maximum benefit.

Expression, as a method of extraction is a comparatively low cost method and when combined with the easy availability of raw materials, it is generally seen that citrus oils are cheaper in the market than other aromatic oils. Examples of such oils are lemon and sweet orange oils that are among the low cost oils in the aromatic industry.

The method of expression has been in use since very ancient times, as can be found in traditional Egyptian practices. It came into the picture long before distillation. Conventionally, the ancient Egyptians used to press the raw plant material and bury it in the dessert for a few months in unglazed ceramic utensils to dry out the water content which naturally used to get diffused through the pores of the ceramic vessel. What would remain inside the pot was the oil, which used to be taken out. It can be seen that scents obtained in such a manner still managed to retain its fragrance even after 3000 years, as can be proved from the lotus oil found in sealed alabaster vessels which were found in Tutankhamen’s tomb.

Tim Walt

The aromatic industry makes use of several techniques in the extraction of essential oils from natural sources. Distillation, Expression, maceration, Enfleurage, etc are a few effective techniques among them. The method of extraction depends largely on the type of raw material used. Enfleurage is one such method which is employed effectively in the extraction of fragrances. Here, the fragrant compounds that are emitted from the raw materials are absorbed into wax and then extracted as oil with the help of alcohol.

In this method, odorless fats which remain solid at room temperature are made use of to capture the fragrant compounds which are given off by plants. The process of Enfleurage can either be ‘hot’ or ‘cold’ according to the raw material from which the oil has to be extracted.
The process involved in extraction of aromatic compounds through cold Enfleurage is as follows. A layer of animal fat usually from pork or beef is smeared on a large framed, glass plate which is known as chassis. After it sets completely, the raw material which normally comprises of petals or whole flowers are placed on it for a period of one to three days for their scent to get diffused on to the fat. This process is repeated by replacing the withered flowers until the fragrance absorbed by the fat reaches a saturation point. This method of fragrance extraction was initially developed in the South of France towards the nineteenth century and was mainly used for the creation of high-grade concentrates.

Hot Enfleurage is a process in which the fats which are in a solid state of form are heated initially and the raw materials which consist of different plant material are stirred into it at repeated intervals until the fat becomes saturated with the scent. Considered to be one among the ancient methods of preserving fragrances from plant matter, it was used widely and was a very popular method.

Both the hot and cold Enfleurage produces the ‘enfleurage pomade’, or fat which happens to be heavily saturated with fragrance.  It could be sold directly or treated further by ethyl alcohol so that the aromatic molecules are absorbed by the alcohol. This alcohol, when evaporated, leaves behind the odorant or fragrant compounds.

The technique of Enfleurage is not considered to be very economically viable by the aromatic industry these days and as a result it has given way to more cost effective and efficient extraction methods.

Tim Walt