Odorants are a very important factor in the creation of perfumes. They are basically obtained by drawing out aromatic compounds from suitable raw materials which are obtained from parts of the plant or other natural sources. Although they can be created through synthetic methods too, the natural methods used in extraction of essential oils are far more superior and in demand. The whole procedure of extraction of odorants requires it to go through several processes.
There are different methods employed for the extraction of essential oils from natural sources, like distillation, solvent extraction, expression, enfleurage, etc. The method used depends upon the nature of the raw materials. These processes results in end products like essential oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters according to the wax concentrate on the extract.

Expression is one such process employed in the extraction of aromatic compounds. In this method, the raw materials used are squeezed, pressed, or compressed to extract the oil from it. This is a technique which is frequently employed in the extraction of oils from fruit peels, especially of those which fall into the category of the citrus family. The peels from such fruits contain a large amount of oil and hence expression is one method where all the oil can be taken out in the most economically viable manner. Normally, the peels are cold pressed or expressed mechanically for the maximum benefit.

Expression, as a method of extraction is a comparatively low cost method and when combined with the easy availability of raw materials, it is generally seen that citrus oils are cheaper in the market than other aromatic oils. Examples of such oils are lemon and sweet orange oils that are among the low cost oils in the aromatic industry.

The method of expression has been in use since very ancient times, as can be found in traditional Egyptian practices. It came into the picture long before distillation. Conventionally, the ancient Egyptians used to press the raw plant material and bury it in the dessert for a few months in unglazed ceramic utensils to dry out the water content which naturally used to get diffused through the pores of the ceramic vessel. What would remain inside the pot was the oil, which used to be taken out. It can be seen that scents obtained in such a manner still managed to retain its fragrance even after 3000 years, as can be proved from the lotus oil found in sealed alabaster vessels which were found in Tutankhamen’s tomb.

Tim Walt

Fruity perfumes, particularly the more subtle ones, are refreshing and attractive. Many perfumes aren’t immediately noticeable as having fruit essences in them but you would notice a real difference without them. Amarige Mariage by Givenchy, for instance, doesn’t smell fruity but the mimosa, spices and violet depend on the accompanying essences of citrus, peaches and plums to bolster round out its enticing aroma.

AMARIGE BY GIVENCHY (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 1 OZ)

Price : $23.24

Fruits are usually used after a process called “expression” in which they are pressed or squeezed to collect their oils. The peels of citrus fruits yield excellent results with this method because they hold large quantities of oil. Citrus is very cost effective to process for perfume, particularly because the fruit does not have to be of the quality required for sale as food in our markets. Lemons and oranges, the least expensive of citrus oils, are used extensively in many brands and types of perfumes and household products for this very reason. Plus, nearly everyone loves their fresh scent!

The Cold-Pressed Method is also used to harvest fruit oils. Since the oil glands in the fruit rind are easily broken open by pressure or grating, the uncut fruit is deposited in a vat with a very rough interior then rotated. The resulting oils are then collected, decanted and separated from impurities. Favorable economics as well as their pleasant odor make citrus oil a popular ingredient in perfumes and other products.

Many people also like the scent of apples, cherries and strawberries but these three fruits, unfortunately, don’t react as expected to extraction and their attractive scent is lost in the process. When you detect these fruits in various products or perfumes, you smell a synthetic imitation due to their unsuitability for processing.

Bergamot oil, from the fruit of the Bergamot orange tree, is the exception to cheaply harvested citrus oil. Its fresh fragrance is one of the more valuable perfume ingredients due to its relative rarity but more than a third of perfumes made for women contain it. Men’s cologne has recently made liberal use of Bergamot oil as it has become more in demand. Onyx by Azzaro uses Bergamot in combination with lemon, coriander (cilantro), Juniper, cedar wood and musk to create a very masculine and attractive perfume for men. Bergamot is an ideal compliment to the other, heavier ingredients and makes the blend lighter while still maintaining an earthy, masculine scent.

ONYX BY AZZARO (EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 3.4 OZ)

Price : $20.14

Fruits also lend a youthful attitude to perfumes and an atmosphere of carefree fun, depending upon what other ingredients they’re blended with. Using fruit oils in perfume allows perfumers to convey a variety of moods and emotions as well as unforgettable aromas.

Tim Walt